THE charred damper loaf at Jock Zonfrillo’s new venture Blackwood is wrapped in a tea towel. Next to it is a small jar filled with what looks like the fat poured off last night’s roast. Tear off a chunk of bread, dip it in the pale gunk and the flavour is triple-strength chicken skin. No doubt this “BBQ chicken butter” would sell by the bucketload.

Compare that with the original version upstairs at Orana where it is one of 25 or so wild and wonderful courses. There, the damper is cooked DIY-style on a charcoal burner at the table. It comes with “lamb butter” that smells a bit like a shearing shed and won’t be everyone’s cup of billy tea.

If you’re trying to get your head around the relationship between these two places – upstairs v downstairs – then this is a good place to start.

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